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Ellsworth
was destined for a turbulent reputation from its very
inception. Fort Ellsworth had been established at the very
edge of the frontier in 1864. The Cheyenne had driven
everyone off the trails leading to Denver City, Colorado
Territory, and it was up to the military to reopen the
trails. Fort Ellsworth lay at the point of division between
the Fort Riley Military Road which led to the Santa Fe Trail
and the Smoky Hill Trail, the most direct but also the most
treacherous route to Denver City.
The
Cheyenne would not go willingly. There were raids upon wagon
trains, horses were stolen directly from Fort Ellsworth, and
ill equipped soldiers were led on wild chases across the sea
of grass known as the Great American Desert. In 1866, the
fort was renamed Fort Harker and, in 1867, relocated one
mile to the northeast.
Fort
Harker would become the major supply post for the military
campaigns to subdue the Plains Indians. In this atmosphere
the idea of Ellsworth City was conceived. Of course, the
idea was to make money from the soldiers and so the city was
platted just beyond the Fort Harker Military Reserve. The
railroad was nearing the city and the new town overflowed
with frontiersmen of every kind. A man could dig a hole in
the bluff that bordered the town, set up a table with some
cards and a bottle of whiskey within its curtained door, and
open for business. In no time, his little dugout would be
overrun with soldiers, gamblers, bullwhackers, railroaders,
Texas cowboys and the inevitable unruly women that made up
the character of doing business in an "end of the line"
town.
Only
months in existence, Ellsworth was struck a series of near
fatal blows. The Smoky Hill River raged out of its banks
leaving the town standing in nearly four feet of water.
Cholera struck at Fort Harker and spread to Ellsworth. Those
who didn't die fled in fear. Nearby Fort Harker was no
deterrent to the Cheyenne who killed railroad workers just
west of town, attacked bull trains on the trail to Santa Fe,
and even stole horses from Ellsworth itself! A handful of
people endured it all and began again on higher ground west
of the original townsite.
The
town was soon to prosper once again and a photograph taken
by Alexander Gardner in September of 1867 shows a vibrant
and active business district. Ellsworth continued its wicked
ways. It was said that "Ellsworth has a man every morning
for breakfast!" And that it did! Gunfire and revelry in the
streets could be heard at all hours of the night or day.
Outlaws rode in and took over the town only to be hung on
the hangin' tree when the vigilante committee tired of their
shenanigans. Wild Bill Hickok ran for Sheriff in 1868, but
there were many equal to the calling in frontier Ellsworth.
Former cavalry man, E.W. Kingsbury, defeated him, and along
with Chauncey Whitney kept the town from complete madness.
Hickok and Redlegs sidekick, Jack Harvey rode the district
as Deputy U.S. Marshals.
The
tales of gunfights, hangings, and fortunes won and lost are
legend. By 1872, the Texas cattle trade had abandoned
Abilene. The wild Texas Longhorn trailed through the streets
of Ellsworth to the Kansas Pacific Stockyards. The Cowboy
reigned supreme, or at least, the gamblers let them think
so. The Plaza was filled with men and women from around the
world and reporters marveled at the diversity. Nearly every
other business was a saloon even though the sign outside
might read "Restaurant". The railroad cut the extra wide
street in half with businesses facing the tracks, a line on
the south and a line on the north. On north main, The OLD
RELIABLE HOUSE sold everything a cowboy could ever want or
need. The Drovers Cottage was across the tracks and was
headquarters for many Texans who could see the stockyards
just out their window.
 In
1873, Ellsworth geared up for the largest drive of Texas
Longhorns to date. They expected trouble, and beefed up the
police force to five men. Four of them were named either
Jack or John, the other was Ed Hogue who also served as
assistant Sheriff of Ellsworth County under Sheriff Chauncey
Whitney. The Cowboys poked fun at the city lawmen referring
to them as "four Jacks and a Joker". Sheriff Whitney they
liked.
The
season remained quiet; only one killing. One hot August
Sunday Ellsworth erupted in gunplay that would in due time
mark the beginning of the end of cattletown Ellsworth. City
Marshal, "Happy Jack" Morco sided with a gambler against
Texan Ben Thompson in a dispute over the winnings of a game.
Ben was a notorious gunman with a reputation equal to Wild
Bill's. Ben and his drunken brother Billy had moved to the
middle of the Plaza near the depot and called to the others
to meet them in the open. The city law was out of control
and unable to intercede peaceably in the matter, and so
Ellsworth County Sheriff, Chauncey Whitney stepped into the
street and called to the Thompsons. In short order he
convinced them to take a drink with him and as they stepped
into Joe Brennan's Saloon, Happy Jack charged down the
street guns drawn. Ben wheeled and fired his Henry rifle
narrowly missing Morco, Billy stumbled and discharged his
shotgun mortally wounding the Sheriff.
Ben
and an army of Texans held off the town as Billy rode away.
In the next few weeks 'Hell was in Session in Ellsworth."
Happy Jack was fired, Ed Crawford, a new city marshal pistol
whipped a Texan to death, Vigilantes roamed the streets
issuing "white affidavits" to Texans to "get out of town or
else", Happy Jack was gunned down in the streets when he
failed to disarm, and a Texan killed Ed Crawford in the dim
hallway of Lizzie Palmer's Dancehall.
Most
Texans went home to the "girl they left behind" and family
dear. Few if ever spoke of the things they saw and did at
the "end of the trail". But, the mementos were there. In
Ellsworth they had often purchased the first "store bought"
clothes they had ever worn. With saddlebags packed with
gifts from the north they triumphantly rode home. And though
Ellsworth would close its shipping pens in 1875, the story
would be told again and again of "Abilene, the first, Dodge
City, the last, but Ellsworth the wickedest". |